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designer biographies

19 4t

Immersed in fashion from a very young age designer Linda Monaskanian has set out to change the idea of what should be considered casual wear. Her love for vintage Japanese fabrics along with filling a niche that she believes is lacking in the industry has helped launch the beginning of 19 4t.

Her past experiences lie with representing high profile contemporary brands such as ‘Milly and ‘Tracey Reese. To further enhance her expertise, Linda attended Otis college of Art & Design, studying both development and design. 

Linda was the most sought out name for a female in the 1940’s. Representing the designer was key when looking into branding the name. Numbers were more intriguing rather than letters and so 19 4t was born. In order to help represent the line both as a knit and jersey line the “40” pronunciation was converted to a “t” for t-shirts.

“I felt like quality casual wear was sparse and that the industry was lacking the concept of taking traditional casual wear such as a pair of sweatpants or a sweatshirt and translating them into something that could be considered a refined garment.”

 Source: 19 4t website

ADIDAS BY STELLA MCCARTNEY

Adidas by Stella McCartney fuses Adidas’ high performance technology with Stella’s signature style of sharp tailoring and innovative design. The collection includes pieces for the following sports: Tennis, Yoga, Studio, Running, Wintersports and then there’s also a more casual line called Weekender for as the name suggests, leisure weekend time.
Source: Farfetch, mocoloco

ALLUDE

Source: Allude website

AMERICAN COLORS

Alex and Shannon Lehr are the owners of American Colors. American Colors is a high-quality American clothing label of comfortable and timeless pieces. We’re known for updated fits, coveted fabrics and subtle, stylish details that set us apart. American Colors clothing is made in the United States, and we support ethically minded mills and manufacturers.

Fashion has been the Lehr family business for decades; Alex’s father’s eponymous shop, Henry Lehr, is a Manhattan mainstay. In 2003, Alex took American Colors from a small side project to an enduring label, rooted in his family’s passion for comfort and classic style. Our clothes are made in the United States, and we’re proud of that. American Colors clothes are instant favorites, and we’ll let you in on why: They’re pre-washed, so the way a shirt fits on day one is the way it will fit time and time again.

It all starts with quality fabrics. We seek out the best whisper-thin garment-dyed cotton, soft plaids and fine organic cotton. Then, working in small batches, we design everything to fit superbly. Our button downs cut long and lean shapes, pullovers are perfectly relaxed and everyday T-shirts fit like a dream.

Above all, our clothes are unequivocally comfortable. You’ll feel as though you’ve had them forever, and you’ll never give them away. We value fabric mills and factories that treat their laborers fairly and operate ethically. We make good decisions when choosing the companies that play a part in American Colors. So, go ahead: focus on fit and color and comfort—we’ve taken care of the rest. You’re not just buying a shirt; you’re helping to create change.

Source: American Colors website

ANNE LAMBRECHT

Ann Lambrecht Jewelry is inspired by a collection of stones, gems, artifacts and talismans from around the world – transformed into luxury handmade designer jewelry.  Each piece tells a meaningful story and connects a whole web of people across cultures, distance and time.

“I am a vagabond at heart, happiest when I am roaming the globe collecting artifacts, amulets, gemstones and beads.  The quest is filled with serendipity and surprises: revealed in remote markets, and noisy bazaars, in unmarked antique shops and the house belonging to the uncle of my taxi driver. 

I invariably meet the most incredible people – archeologists, matriarchs, toothless old men, tribal elders.  I buy what I find beautiful and interesting.   And I bring these magical treasures back home and turn them into jewelry.

For me, jewelry isn’t about glittery objects filling empty space; it is about telling a story. A story of ancient civilizations and exotic tribes.  Of our primal desire to adorn ourselves, express ourselves and find meaning in symbols and in life.

Every woman who discovers and wears my jewelry becomes part of that story. And the story deepens and extends when she enters it.”

Source: Anne Lambrecht’s website

BERNARDO

Bernardo is a maker of better grade women’s footwear and handbags. Founded in 1947 by Bernard Rudofsky, Bernardo has a rich heritage, which lives on to this very day.  After living and working in Florence Italy for nearly 20 years, Bernardo designers Dennis and Lynne Comeau relocated to Santa Fe New Mexico in August of 2006. All Bernardo products are conceptually designed, and are crafted by hand with great attention to detail, in order to insure quality, comfort, fit, and value.

BROCHU WALKER

After honing their skills at various New York fashion companies, Lisa Brochu and Lauren Walker launched the BROCHU WALKER collection in February 2008. The trendsetting duo identified a void in the market for effortless, wearable, chic basics that appealed to women who had outgrown contemporary designs. BROCHU WALKER is built on the principal of layering and wrapping. 

The interplay between texture and tonality, classic silhouettes with unexpected details and varied proportion are what make the BROCHU WALKER collection unique. They are versatile pieces that a woman can put her individual stamp on. 

BROCHU WALKER clothing can be worn with heels, a favorite pair of jeans, at the beach or when lounging at home. It’s all about stylish versatility and ease…wearable runway.


Source: Brochu Walker website

BROGDEN

A British label originating from Yorkshire, Brogden brings a unique collection of leather pieces for men and women. Offering classics that transcend fashion, the Brogden range includes parkas, sweaters, biker jackets, bomber jackets and accessories inspired by English heritage, sports and military themes. 

Source: Farfetch, Brogden website

CARVEN

Since the beginning, the Carven house has had a democratic and Parisian view of fashion design. Madame Carmen de Tommaso broke through the austere world of Haute Couture as an innovator in the Forties with a spontaneous and fresh style, adapted to the women’s everyday life at that time.
Since 2009, Carven has opened a new chapter. From the couture years, Guillaume Henry and Carven have kept its heritage. It lives on in the spirit of perfect design and choice materials. Today, the house offers ready-to-wear that is both inspired and accessible.

Source: Carven Website

CHINTI AND PARKER

Cousins Anna Singh and Rachael Wood launched Chinti and Parker in October 2009 with a clear mission. To create beautiful, ethically made garments that value style on par with substance. Super soft fabrics, flattering cuts and a palette that combines key neutrals with fashion conscious colourways and prints has become the brand’s blueprint, providing the building blocks of the perfect capsule wardrobe.

Using high quality natural materials that are chosen for both their inherent beauty and ethical consideration, Chinti and Parker clothing spells a new era of style and luxury. One that is built on integrity and sustainability, and one which far outlives seasonal trends.

Production decisions always consider the beauty and quality of a garment in line with ethical and environmental concerns. All jersey (cotton, bamboo and cotton-cashmere) is produced in Portugal, and cotton jersey is 100% organic except for grey marl. Cashmere is made in Italy from fine Italian yarns and woven cotton pieces are produced in both Portugal and India. The latter is a step that supports local industry and growth in this developing country, where both Anna and Rachael have family.

Each garment comes with a tag stating its individual ethical credentials, so you can see clearly whether it’s organic, fair trade or made within the EU.
In order to limit unwanted environmental damage, Chinti and Parker actively offsets carbon emissions as outlined by the Carbon Neutral Company and in so doing has been certified carbon neutral.

COMME DES GARÇONS

Japanese designer Rei Kawakubo is the founder of Comme Des Garçons, an avant-garde and anti-concept fashion line.

 Regarded as one of today’s most original talents, “intellectual” (translated in fashion terms as solemn and inscrutable) is the word most often associated with Ms. Kawakubo. It is used in spite of the popular success of her collection for the fast fashion chain H&M in 2008; it ignores rock ’n’ roll, plaid and punk on her runways; and it disregards her playful take on the bubble-gum pink “Kawaii” world of Japanese girls.

 Ms. Kawakubo has been making clothes for over 40 years, always under the label Comme des Garçons, which means ”like some boys” and in a way suggests a gang. In the ’80s, this could be seen in the hordes of black-clad women, many of whom considered themselves feminists and were eager to express themselves radically.

In 1992, Ms. Kawakubo decided to branch out and gave a young patternmaker, Junya Watanabe, his own label, a move that revealed her to be an innovative businesswoman. Since then, she has added a hatching stall for new talent, with three designers — Tao Kurihara and Ganryu in addition to Mr. Watanabe — building their own brands under Comme’s protection.

Ms. Kawakubo and her husband, Adrian Joffe, also operate the eclectic Dover Street Market in London, giving the Comme des Garçons company another way to burnish its avant-garde image while continuing to grow. Comme des Garcons had a turnover of $180 million in 2008.

Ms. Kawakubo been publicly recognized as an artist, with many awards, including an honorary doctorate from the Royal College of Art in London.

Source: NY Times

COSTUME NATIONAL

Ten years after debuting on-line with the first live streamed fashion show, Ennio Capasa pushes Costume National into a new dimension on the Web – a fresh approach to the aesthetics of the brand that in the Nineties launched a new mix of minimalism and tailoring expertise. It all starts with a video interview, during which the designer reveals the DNA of Costume National and its mantra, ‘evolution’. He describes fashion as a daily platform that becomes pure creativity only through its actual expressions. And it is creativity that allows the fashion biz to develop from an exercise in style into a dialogue between the first inspiration of the designer and the interpretation of the wearers.

In 2001, Ennio Capasa first challenged the future with a revolution in communication that kept fashion at centre stage while revealing new collections to the public with an unprecedented immediacy. If fashion is an adventure to be lived day by day, it is essential to document it with the same readiness with which it is worn. «It is imperative that we evolve now», says the designer, and there is nothing like the Web to encompass and keep up with the constant evolution that pervades Costume National.

Evolving while keeping true to the core inspiration: the rock ‘n’ roll of the Seventies – revisited in campaigns starring the children of rock – filtered by the concept of tailoring, which remains crucial for Capasa. In order to maintain this delicate balance – which over the years has developed into an instantly recognizable aesthetics – the designer has delved into technological minimalism with laser-cut fabrics, Pantone colours and futuristic silhouettes.

However, there are no signs of excessive abstraction. According to Ennio Capasa, one of the cardinal rules of fashion is that it should maintain a dialogue with the person who wears it – that it should change according to the needs and desires of the individuals who make a piece of the collection their own. Thus a garment relives thanks to the person who wears it: «Fashion is a form of pleasure, it seduces the self and the others», states the designer. This fashion is more centred on the dialogue with the wearer than on the narcissistic monologue.

«I believe that my aim or ambition has always been creating a style, an aesthetic point of view». The designer of Costume National unveils the story of the brand starting with the declaration of a passion for fashion and for its ability to interpret daily reality and the energy that surrounds us. The world is inspiration but in order to interpret it one needs intuition, «that is, the moment in which, thanks to a secret mechanism, you look around and try to capture certain sensations and objects that hold some freshness, some energy. Then you have to organize your ideas, and turn this intuition into a real design, with fabrics, colours and forms». And you have to go through the effects of this intuitive dream, even when the fabrics and their character impose themselves and require to seek new solutions.

Photo Source: Costume National Website

CRIPPEN

I was one of the founding partners of J Brand, and it changed my life forever. What started in 2004 took me down a road I had never imagined I would walk down. In 2010, we sold the company and I chose to leave. 

From the moment I knew I would be leaving I started thinking about what I would do next. I thought about moving to Spain to learn Flamenco and ride Andalusian horses all day, or perhaps move to Northern California and make pottery and start a sanctuary for wounded birds of prey. Both options would have been very Susie Crippen-like and would have brought a new world of adventures. But…where would I wear my new Givenchy strappy stilettos? And what about my new Roland Mouret long dress? Can I get Vogue in the rolling foothills hills of the backcountry? It was then that I stopped planning my future and just started living in the present. Day by day, with my two dogs, the newspaper, good books and great movies.

After three months of hunkering down, I got wanderlust and started traveling. I went to Turkey, Spain, France, Brazil, Argentina and India. With each trip the ideas started materializing in my head. What is the perfect dress for summer? Where is the ideal navy blazer to wear with my jeans and white t-shirt? Why don’t I have any trousers I want to wear? And that’s where it started.

I realized I missed creating for my customer; I missed the conversation that I got to have with thousands of women when I was in my old position. I missed making things and I wanted to try again, only this time I wanted to step into a totally different arena. I began to think of what I wanted it to be, who I wanted to speak to, and how I wanted to communicate to them.

As I started the process of building this company in my head, I went through old photographs of myself and saw that year after year, I wear the same simple pieces over and over again. I yearned for those clothes in a modern version.

I wanted to make beautiful clothing that is easy to wear and stunning at the same time. I wanted clothing that defied trends and I would wear for twenty years and never want to give away. I wanted to put eight pieces of clothing and three pairs of shoes in my suitcase and be ready for any destination
 
and situation I would be put in.

And so CRIPPEN began…

CROSSLEY

At Crossley we only choose Italian-made products and select exclusively high-quality materials.

We are open to experimenting with new design, finishes and an endless evolution in the creation of new fabrics where organic textiles take precedence.

We use old-style, handmade ornaments for urban and experimental collections that play with new themes along with an extraordinary combination of fabrics and yarns meant to evoke, in its uncomplicated and discreet “parcel,” the sense of an inconspicuous yet refined luxury.

Source: Crossley website

CUT 25

DEAR CASHMERE

DEAR CASHMERE is a declaration of love to the world’s finest natural yarn and the women who share this passion. The collection is a tribute to your senses, combining quality and style. Our styles are available throughout all seasons and have already become a bestseller, being a warm t-shirt equivalent in cashmere quality. 

So no matter which part of the globe you are at or which season it is, cashmere is cool in summer and warm in winter. Because we feel that DEAR luxury needs to be comfortable, otherwise it’s not luxury.

Source: DEAR website

DEMYLEE

Designer Demy Lee wanted to design what she appreciated most in her own closet, something she reached for just about every day…sweaters.

Born in Korea, Demy studied at Parsons School of Design and held a design position at Calvin Klein, Gap Inc., and later played a key role in launching Tory Burch¹s first collection.

Called Demylee, the collection is focused solely on cashmere. They are knit from Inner Mongolian goats, which produce the finest cashmere fiber known. 
It is ultra fine luxurious cashmere that is the foundation for all of her designs.

Demy’s sweaters are designed in such a way that they are current, appealing to both the downtown girl as well as those who want something classic. 
A mix of understated, elegant and modern, Demy Lee has the perfect sweater for every girl.

Source: Demylee website

DUVETICA

The history of Duvetica is relatively new but it has gained over time a great success for the quality and modern design of its leaders. The company was founded in 2004,specialized in the production of outerwear padded with goose down. The strategy is something special now selling direct to the higher part of the market and, initially, only to that Japanese. According to the designers Stefano Rovoletto and Giampiero Vagliano,many Italians, returning from Japan, wondered to know what was the origin of the brandknown in Japan and how to track it in Europe, only to discover with surprise that it was anItalian company. The name connotes the corporate vision: infact it comes from “duvet”(the French term used to denote the prized staple of the comforter) and “ethics” (the value at the base of the entire production). Varied the composition of the final productluxurious: the gray goose feathers come from France, the interior is Japanese and thetrendy fabrics are Italian.

Source: Massaboutique

ÉTOILE ISABEL MARANT

 

You know her. The French girl with the just-rolled-out-of-bed, can’t-be-bothered look. She pulls on last night’s clothes—slouchy tee, gray jeans. Fingers through the hair, a touch of makeup, and she goes out. Yet she looks smashing. Perhaps it’s her ankle boots (scuffed just so), boyish jacket, and lambskin shoulder bag. Or maybe it’s the way that skinny chain-mail scarf or mass of bracelets comes off as an afterthought. Equal parts confidence and nonchalance—that’s what makes this Gallic girl so enviable, and no one captures it better than Isabel Marant.

A native Parisian, Marant blends ethnic bohemia and tomboy street chic effortlessly, and her name has long been on the lips of fashion insiders: editors, models, and sexy actresses like Sienna Miller and Rachel Weisz. Until recently, Americans had to jet across the pond to get their hands on her notoriously hard-to-find pieces—slim pants, sheer tees, and draped minis—which they carried home by the armload. (The more enterprising could turn a quick profit on eBay.) The label’s exclusivity was just part of its mystique. “It took some time to build up,” Marant acknowledged in 2008, “but I have never fallen.”

But even after fifteen years in the business, with a rock-solid fan base and booming boutiques, Marant didn’t quite know how to bring her vision to a wider audience—that is, until she reconnected with her childhood friend Emmanuelle Alt, then the fashion director of French Vogue. “My strength is not putting clothes together,” Marant said in 2010. “Emmanuelle, on the other hand, is perfect for this… . It’s funny because she has managed to create exactly the image I wanted.”

Source: Voguepedia

FALKE

Our company name stands for the highest quality standards and a sophisticated design. We offer premium products - products that will provide you with great pleasure.

Source: FALKE website

FEATHERED SOUL

Feathered Soul is a line of jewelry by Marganne Town, based in California. She works with leathers, beads, crystals, and other elements to create stunning, one-of-a-kind pieces in the Mother Nature’s most vibrant hues.

Photo: Pinterest

FRANK AND EILEEN

GRAF & LANTZ

Growing up in Germany Holger is very familiar with felt used as traditional material. He went on to graduate with a PhD in engineering from the renowned Technische Universität in Munich, Germany and moved to Los Angeles to work as a structural engineer. On a trip back home he rediscovered felt and was inspired by its many uses in European design. What started with playing with a couple of yards of felt turned into a whole line of bags, home accessories not limited to felt but also other materials like leather and canvas. Even though he gave up his previous career to concentrate on this new venture the engineering background still shows in design philosophy stressing modern lines and structural aesthetics.

Daniel spent 10 years in Japan which heavily influences his design aesthetic. After attending Otaru Shoka Daigaku university he started an organic produce coop in the mountains of Hokkaido. The need to build a larger farm house drew him to Kajiwara Hisao, a famed wood artisan and master carpenter in the traditional Japanese style of wa daiku. His relationship with Kajiwara San shaped Daniel’s design ideals which are based in the marriage of understated luxury and traditional techniques.

The combination of east and west and ancient and modern are the basis and influences to the continued growth of Gräf & Lantz.

Source: Graf & Lantz website

GRYSON

Joy Gryson started her career working for industry powerhouses such as Liz Claiborne, Coach, Calvin Klein, and eventually landed at Marc Jacobs, where she rose through the ranks to the title of Director of Design and Development for Marc Jacobs Handbags and Accessories. Joy oversaw a team of designers and developers who were directly responsible for the both Marc Jacobs Collection and Marc by Marc handbags and accessories. Joy and her team created some of the most influential handbag designs ever.

In 2006 Joy went out on her own and launched the Gryson brand of luxury accessories. The Gryson brand has garnered much attention in a short period of time, from collaborating with major retailer Target for a limited time only guest designer program to being nominated for the CFDA accessories designer of the year award for emerging talent. The Gryson brand has been distributed globally to better retailers in over 20 countries. Lane Crawford, Isetan, Podium, Holt Renfrew, Neiman Marcus, Bergdorf Goodman, Barney’s New York, Saks 5th Ave. to name a few.

Joy is also a partner in Tribeca Design LTD., a design consultancy firm. Tribeca Design LTD. has designed and developed and produced some of the most high profile, recognizable brand names in the world. By working on so many different projects, it allows for Joy to always have a fresh approach and new perspective.

Joy has spent a career traveling the world designing and developing some of the most recognized handbags in the market. Joy enjoys a fantastic relationship with all of her vendors from Paris, Florence, Milan, Hong Kong, London and New York. Joy truly is a great designer, but she is also a great business woman, a great mother, wife, daughter, sister and friend.

Joy is a long time resident of downtown New York. She was born in Korea and came to the U.S. when she was three years old, and has been a New Yorker ever since. She attended and graduated from the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York City.

H BY HUDSON

Born in 1990, Hudson has been putting their best foot forward for more than two decades with its high quality, affordable shoes. Acknowledging trends and giving them our own idiosyncratic twist is the cornerstone of the Hudson philosophy. Whether it’s music, art, style icons or film, there is always inspiration to be found. Often imitated, never rivalled, Hudson will always strive to innovate, surprise and push boundaries in footwear design.

Never a brand to rest on its (perfectly formed) heels, H by Hudson marched onto the scene in 2004. In eight years the line has gone from strength to strength with the range offering an eclectic product mix from sharp formals to contemporary casuals. With our toes firmly on the pulse, H by Hudson can be expected to lead the way in footwear trends.

The ladies H by Hudson joined the ranks in 2008, and with it, a new army of female fans. From men’s formal shoes and brogues to the more casual chukka boot and now with the added androgyny brought through by the ladies collection, including women’s brogues made in beautifully crafted leathers, Hudson has become a hub for footwear fashionistas far and wide.

Each Hudson shoe has been influenced by a far flung corner of the world, taking in many different finishes and techniques along the way including hand-finished features. Across all of our H by Hudson collections, from men’s leather shoes, boots and deck shoes to ladies suede ankle boots and brogues, we aim to fuse desirability with durability. Each shoe utilises the same pioneering ethos with leathers being washed or dip-dyed for a vintage feel, creating a range of understated classics.

Our signature play on androgynous looks continues to experiment with new treatments to quality leathers, whilst also retaining brand stalwarts across all ranges from formals like Ellington brogues for men, or the Angus brogue Boot to the likes of the Enke, or Horrigan Cuban ankle boots.

Source: Hudson website

HACHE

Founded in 1990 with its sophisticated and avant-garde Hache was immediately met with great success and then implementing a diversified real total look. 
The line created by Manuela Arcari becomes synonymous with grit, style and fashion, developing a versatile and eclectic style in perfect harmony with the new woman of today: enterprising and confident ‘but still loves to play with her image and femininity. 
Romantic and sensual, masculine and ethnic origin, but always drawn to a casual yet exclusive look: this is the HACHE woman.

Hache expresses a perfect combination of charm and contemporary creations sought after and exclusive result of careful attention to every detail carefully chosen fabrics, shapes embellished by refined details and subtle volume to create an innovative product of high quality.

Born in Bologna, is an elusive character, who does not like to show. He talks about himself with decency and sincerity and feels he can talk about his new and more solid balance based on solid principles here Manuela Arcari.

The encounter with the fashion happens by chance in 1980, when he began working at the office of a clothing style of the area. Since that time the work becomes a passion, and in 1992 designed the first collection Manuela successful as of press and public than ever before. 
mother of two children, defines Ter Et Bantine as his “Third Daughter”, claiming to have made them all grow and “three” with love and care, protecting them never to miss discipline and rigor, not sparing even the fiercest critics, to enable them to gain the freedom to be what they want.

Source: HACHE website

INHABIT

INHABIT is a unique and luxurious knitwear label with a philosophy centered on the body. Focused on explorations of fit and proportion, INHABIT has created a line of timeless classics–cashmere and cotton knitwear that is attuned to the lines, volumes, and movement of the body. Pieces are meant to be draped and layered, emphasizing fluidity and ease. Knits varying in gauge and weight range from cozy cashmere and wintry wool, to cool cotton and summer linen. Innovative details in the textures, ties, stitching and seams give INHABIT sweaters a distinct sensibility that stands out in the marketplace.

Each season, INHABIT produces everyday essentials in gorgeous muted tones that fill up the closets of women in the know, and provide the foundation for their wardrobes. Celebrities and fashion insiders alike covet INHABIT’s luxurious sweaters for their wearibility, versatility, and celebration of individual style. Look to INHABIT for the latest in knitwear innovation, where form and function (looking good and staying warm) chicly co-exist.

Source: Inhabit website

JAS M.B.

Inspired by shape and form, Jas MB is an International brand producing handmade bags in London with the trademark being weightless construction in design craftsmanship. Jas MB was established by founder Jas Sehmbi in 2000 when landing on the shelves in Barney’s New York and cult fashion store YMC.

Now renowned as a luxury leather brand for handbags and accessories, Jas M.B. is a global phenomenon. With over 500 International stockists spanning over twenty-seven countries… Jas M.B. is creating a buzz as a must have fashion luxury brand.

Jas M.B. has collaborated with many artists, young designers, and Established Brands. Some of which include Simeon Farrar, Katherine Hamnett and Miharayasuhiro.

What began 10 years ago with a collection of great pieces has grown into one of the world’s most unique luxury brands. With immense inspiration for the love of leather goods and accessories, Jas Sehmbi has always been one to involve people to be a part of this creative journey.

African-born, Jas Sehmbi, relocated to India at the age of four, before finally settling in England in 1970. Since leaving school, he chose to specialise in Art at Eastham College, Stratford. On completing the Art Foundation, the young creative began retailing small leather and canvas bags just three months on. By 1985, Sehmbi was designing his own bags and launched his first shop in Essex.

Jas decided to travel to Italy to design and produce another unique range that was then imported to the UK. His natural creative flair and influence from fashion and music led Jas to develop the first ever DJ record bag. His amazing talent led to the production of 30,000 nylon bags from producing his first ever hand made bag in 1994. This was a great opportunity for Jas to fund his two labels ‘Spaced Out’ and ‘W11’.

As time went on, Jas continued to succeed and produced the first collection for Jas M.B. In 2000, Barneys New York and cult fashion store YMC, placed orders that subsequently sold out within the first day. This boom continued to Tranoi, Paris in 2001 at both Men and Women fashion shows.

The journey then began…

Source: Jas M.B. website

JIL SANDER NAVY

Noted as one of the major labels who helped popularize the minimalist aesthetic of the nineties, Jil Sander stands for luxe purity. The German designer launched her namesake women’s ready-to-wear line in 1973 on the Milan runway, after designing collections for her own boutique in Hamburg for five years. The austere suits and coats, embellishment-free cashmere knits, and monochrome silk dresses in whites, browns, and blacks earned a cult following among critics and buyers alike, and led to a $200 million empire that came to include menswear, accessories, and multiple perfumes. Buyers from prestigious department stores like Barneys New York have said it’s one of the labels that their clients most consistently seek. In 1999, Prada Group acquired 75 percent of the label, which led to Sander’s departure shortly thereafter. Milan Vukmirovic, who had prior stints at Colette and Gucci, was brought in but failed to uphold the streamlined cleanliness that Jil Sander executed. In 2003, Prada asked Sander back. With much anticipation from the public and press, the designer showcased her signature staple pieces, this time with strokes of color (sherbet-hued dresses, white jackets painted with blue streaks) and flourish (fringed separates, sequined numbers), before officially stepping down four seasons later. Following an interim period, Raf Simons was brought in as the new creative director in 2005. The Belgian menswear designer has delivered, maintaining the label’s heritage and making it his own with appliquéd shorts, electric red, orange, and blue outerwear, and blousy, one-button coats. His conceptual, sculptural suits for the Jil Sander menswear line have been embraced as well. In 2008, the label was bought by Tokyo-based apparel group Onward Holdings Co, keeping Simons at the helm. In 2011, the label launched Jil Sander Navy, a lower-priced diffusion line.

Source: Jil Sander Navy website, NY Mag

KATE CUSACK

Design talent Kate Cusack is inspired by “seemingly mundane materials” that she can rework into couture-quality, one-of-a-kind wearable pieces. Kate’s incredible zipper jewelry caught our eye, and we knew that these versatile, edgy and sculptural pieces would provide the perfect accent to Grethen House apparel.

Photo source: FashionIndie.com

KOKUN

Kokun is a cashmere sweater company based in New York City, founded in 2006.
Specializing in high-quality yarns in up-to-date silhouettes, Kokun sweaters are designed for years, not just seasons. The brand embodies modern comfort, simplicity with detail, and effortless luxury. Kokun cashmere has a downtown feel, which is a fresh take on today’s cashmere market. It is casual and at the same time luxurious.

Source: Kokun website

LES COPAINS

Les Copains is one of the most well known and reliable names in ready to wear fashion in Italy and throughout the world. The brand name was created in the late ’50s and takes its name from the title of a popular French radio show, “Salut Les Copains”. Since its founding, Les Copains has always been considered a symbol of the “Made in Italy” tradition in terms of creativity, industrial technique and quality. The predominant element is knitwear; a symbol of style, glamour, freedom and excellence. Cashmere, above all else, remains Les Copains’ first love even as the brand evolves through the years; contemporary and stylistically consistent through the use of technological innovations and special treatments of the material.

Source: Les Copains website

LILA P.

Inspired by the modern woman, Lilla P is a collection that is perfectly tailored for a casual lifestyle. Each season, Lilla P returns to the brand ethos by rethinking the classics to create a collection of separates that are both flattering and functional. Unfettered yet full of subtle detail and pared down luxury, Lilla P’s hallmarks are clean lines, quality fabrications and an impeccable fit.

Starting in 1998 with the essential tee, the collection has expanded to include sophisticated staples and key fashion items including a variety of tee shirts, item jackets, lightweight sweaters, dresses and skirts that are available in a variety of luxurious fabrications and colors. Each season, the line continues to develop and grow in an exciting direction.

Since its inception, Lilla P has cultivated a devoted coterie of chic specialty retailers that can be found throughout the United States and Canada.

Source: Lilla P website

LISA TODD

During 20 years of owning and running premium women’s clothing stores we’ve learned that what the fashion industry is making, and what the women want, are two very different things.

We want what makes us look and FEEL delicious.
We buy plenty of clothes, but what we wear is only a handful.
We fall for trends, but they rarely become the things we love and cherish.

Our promise is to create beautiful garments that become a wardrobe favorite:
the go to, delicious, luxurious, comfortable, fits perfect and makes you feel good all the time, favorite.

A quality treasured.

Source: Lisa Todd website

LIVIANA CONTI

In 1976 Liviana Troffei came out with a knitwear line for children under the name “lamelamatura”.
The creative intuition of Liviana, head of the style office, plus the entrepreneurial talent of Roberto Conti, general manager of the company, meant that by 1982 there was the first production of a brand of Total Look women’s knitwear which has now become hard fact and an international griffe into the bargain:
Liviana Conti.
The operative centre was founded in Savignano sul Rubicone, where it still carries out most of the production, while the showroom is in Milan, and products are distributed to leading markets not only in Italy, but the rest of Europe and the world: France, Germany, Benelux, Spain, Switzerland, China, Japan, Russia, Hong Kong, Taiwan, Australia and the United States.
In 2008, the company was purchased by the Light Force SpA group, already owners of the brands TWIN-SET Simona Barbieri and SCEE by TWIN-SET, as a second line and brand devoted to the younger set. Another recent purchase is LUCIANO PADOVAN, a celebrated brand of footwear now part of the Light Force SpA group.

Liviana Conti is the Italian mastermind behind inventive knitting.
Open to experimentation, the knitwear she produces is the very thing that leads us to discover the stylist’s personality.
Her world of perceptions finds expression in a product which is essential yet refined, the progeny of a conceptual art which makes a cult of our times out of a refined minimalism.
The product, the very synonym of quality, created with craftsman-like care, evokes something of the haiku, the greatest poetic expression where the imagination lingers over a detail to bring us the very essence inherent in it.

Source: Liviana Conti website, Fashion Model Directory

MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA

Belgian designer Martin Margiela is a mysterious talent. His clothes and accessories are often marked with nothing but a few discreet white stitches. The designer’s trompe-l’oeil pieces prove beautifully intimidating; once off the hanger and on the figure, Margiela designs convert the wearer into a die-hard fan, as is evident with any famous fashion mogul. Margiela debuted his namesake collection in 1988 after stints at Jean Paul Gaultier and Hermès, both established houses where Margiela honed his technical skills. Martin Margiela’s classical training grounds his progressive apparel, crediting his reputation for predicting and setting seasonal trends. Martin Margiela’s designs will always have a home at Grethen House!

Source: swaggermuffin, Maison Martin Margiela website, style.com

MALENE BIRGER

Malene Birger has made a big impact in the fashion industry, particularly in her native country, Denmark. Fortunately you don’t have to visit her world-acclaimed Copenhagen store to get your hands on her pieces! Day Birger et Mikkelsen is a famous label that stands as Malene’s first fashion endeavor upon graduating from the Danish Design School. Her award-winning success with Day Birger et Mikkelsen led her to create By Malene Birger. Yet another onslaught of design acclamations accompanied this development, including Costume Norway’s Designer of the Year award for 2008! Grethen House is proud to create one-of-a-kind style with this incredible Danish talent.

Malene Birger website, Sparkpool.wordpress.com

MARIA CORNEJO

Chilean-born and English-bred, Maria Cornejo designs are influenced by the many parts of the world where Maria studied the art of clothes-making. Maria was formerly the design partner of Richmond Cornejo before becoming independent and working as both designer for her namesake line and consultant for clothing brand Joseph. Her work garnered the Fashion Prize of the 2006 Smithsonian Cooper Hewitt National Design Awards. Maria permanently resides in New York, bringing her brand of elegant creativity to New Yorkers and Grethen House shoppers alike. She is loved for her knack for women’s tailoring; no female can feel unhappy in one of Maria Cornejo’s creations. Just ask Michelle Williams or Tilda Swinton!

Source: Paper Mag, Maria Cornejo website

MEGAN PARK

Renowned for her artisan’s touch, Megan Park creates a collection that mixes the ancient traditions and craft of hand embroidery with the cuts, shapes and fabrics of today to create heirlooms of the future.

Every item in Megan Park’s collection is designed and developed in-house and is exclusive. Each fabric is hand-dyed according to the season’s palette, before being stretched over a frame for embroidery, and finally the garment is assembled by hand. Printing techniques employed include hand block and hand screen-printing, each colour individually applied under the trained eye of the printer who keeps up a steady, seamless pattern. 

Megan Park’s international success continues to grow as she sells in the most reputed stores worldwide and garners the attention of the fashion press and followers of fashion who respect a collection that is both current and timeless.

‘Clothes like these are modern antiques and don’t go out of fashion. When they are not being worn, they are hung from a picture rail like a work of art. It seems almost philistine to hide them away. ‘ The Independent Newspaper ’ UK

Source: Megan Park website, Fashion Food Fatale

MOTHER DENIM

Shying from the much-digested notion of heritage jeans, Mother is a play on opposites. A study in irony, it feels soft and nurturing, while presenting itself as stark and sexy. The term winks at the double entendres of what is, arguably, the second most powerful word in the English language…

Our idea was to create a brand that captured the excitement of our own newfangled denims. We are able to add a new element to the way people wear jeans in fit fabric finish and now feel.

Source: Mother Denim website

NAHM

Nary Manivong and Alexandria Hilfiger are the design duo behind NAHM. NAHM represents the first and last initials of the designers’ names and also translates to water in Laotian, Nary’s ancestral language. NAHM launched in Fall 2011. The focus of their design collaboration is the shirtdress, with the NAHM collection finding inspiration in men’s shirting details combined with feminine accents, fine fabrics and inventive silhouettes.

Source: NAHM website

NDC MADE BY HAND

Source: NDC Made By Hand website

NIGEL PRESTON

Jean Cocteau’s maxim, that style is a simple way of saying complex things, sums up the effortless grace of Nigel Preston’s skilful, subtle clothes design, most particularly in sheepskin, suede and leather, that inspired the fashion world for 30 years from the mid-Seventies. He was famous for his experimentation with decorative, painterly techniques, for his exotic colouring on leather, for his exquisite ornamentation and his patient eye for detail – his biannual collection was eagerly anticipated. Where Preston led, Hermès and Gucci followed. That he was not a household name says more about the vagaries and hype of the fashion industry than it does about his creative talents. The most unvain of men, he was a natural innovator.

It was Preston who first rescued leather from its slick and tough biker-boy, rock’n’roll image, moulding it to the ebb and flow of the body as if it were silk. In his hands, the hard-boiled, Chandleresque trench-coat was transformed into a garment aspiring to the simple lines of a sculpture of Greek antiquity. Yet just when you had him nailed as a neo-classicist, this playful juggler of styles would come up with something like his Napoleon coat, a luxurious rococo triumph of soft, white sheepskin.

Slight, pale and somewhat resembling a classical statue himself, he had a knack for spotting the paradox in things. It sounds, perhaps, paradoxical to say he was a lover of animals but Preston, ever a thin-skinned man himself, understood in his bones that fabric always stands to some extent for the skin of the person beneath it. He used his clothes to accentuate a form of sensual contact with the wearer. He put a magical spin on fashion, creating clothes of undeniable beauty.

He was born in Woking, the place his mother Paddy happened to be visiting when he presented himself, rather suddenly, as a breech birth. But his first sartorial adventures took place in Lahore, Pakistan, where he went, aged 11, with his parents – his father was a manager with Kodak – and where, as the only white boy at Aitchison College, he would set off to school every day in a smart day suit topped with a sea-blue silk turban. This childhood idyll ended when, aged 13, he contracted hepatitis and was sent, with the best of intentions, back to Britain, to a Benedictine school in the Scottish Highlands close to Loch Ness which was cold and light-deprived and where he was miserable.

Letters home spoke of the tireless bullying of its teachers and when his attempts to persuade Paddy to let him leave didn’t meet with an instant response – pupils were threatening to take the place by storm and had attempted to burn it down, he warned her, a whole eight years before Lindsay Anderson’s cult satire If hit the screen – Nigel concocted his own more gentle form of insurrection. He ran away. His next school, the progressive Dartington Hall in Devon, he loved – its medieval stone, its topiaried gardens, and the painting tutor there who was the first person to tell him that he was first and foremost an artist.

It was the Swinging Sixties and though never a raver, Nigel Preston loved people who were. Like many shy, creative people he was naturally drawn to performers, admiring that sheer quality of nerve required to put oneself out there, but unable to summon it up in himself. Still, at Dartington, he had had some training on drums from the great Jon Hiseman and, in 1966, with his friend the musician Paul Roberts, he decided to form an experimental pop group, the Dreamland Express, practising in a studio provided free by Pete Townshend and even advertised in the first issue of Oz with an illustration of a train puffing out of the clouds.

Later, as the duo Presto and Calico, they performed their only live gig at a church hall in Hampstead supporting Hawkwind. They could have made it, Roberts says: “The Who’s record company were very interested… But around this time Nigel began thinking that the music business was too tough. He didn’t like the hard-nosed A&R people.”

For years Preston had been making his own clothes, teaching himself how to make a pattern by taking apart shirts he had bought and refashioning his own. His first entry into the commercial world of fashion was making chamois leather women’s tops to sell on Portobello Road during which time he supported himself working for the Hungry Horse Pie Shop in Fulham Road, eschewing the business ethic by giving away more pies than he sold.

In the mid-Seventies Preston opened a shop, Maxfield Parrish, just off the King’s Road, named after the illustrator and artist he so admired. Originally making clothes of dandyesque theatricality for men, he soon fused his love for music and fashion by making bespoke clothes for emerging pop stars – Queen, Suzi Quatro, Emerson, Lake & Palmer. Julie Andrews would buy her leather trousers only from Nigel Preston.

The business was transformed from a quirky retail outlet into an international design name with the appearance in 1978 of Brenda, Nigel’s flame-haired wife and the mother of his three sons, TomTed, Piers and Blair. Brenda, then running her own fashion PR company, saw the potential for international development and Nigel, with Brenda working at his side to create collections, began showing at the London Designer Collections as Maxfield Parrish.

Nigel Preston remained detached – at his shows in the Eighties and Nineties he was known for his brief half-hour appearances to receive accolades. He conquered the Italian market with his classic chic and in LA he was renowned for high fashion. Washed leather originated with Preston – he developed the technique in the outbuildings of the beautiful Château de Tercey in Normandy that he and Brenda bought in 1980.

Completely self-taught, he was untrammelled by preconceptions. Having invented washed leather, he began experimenting with painting and waxing it, brocading it, trimming it with fur, leaving its edges rough. He developed new techniques to increase its suppleness. To the end he made all his own patterns, tested each new technique and, unless restrained, he would have made each and every sample.

His obsessive interest in what he called “getting it right” could infuriate those who loved him but this perfectionism was always modified by an interest in the world around him. To Preston everything was a potential source of inspiration. He disliked a crowd but, one to one, could talk knowledgeably about architecture, music, literature.

He was always finding new subjects of fascination. The paintings of Frederick Remington inspired a love of cowboy clothes. The duster jackets in a Sergio Leone movie were transformed into his trenchcoat. Before he died he had just discovered the indie pop group Elbow whose music he was looking forward to sharing with his friends. He was, like his clothes, fastidious, discreet, effortlessly simple, naturally harmonious. He was a vibrant presence.

The Nigel Preston label continues under Brenda.

Nigel Edmund Hayter Preston, fashion designer: born Woking, Surrey 25 August 1946; married 1993 Brenda Knight (three sons); died Tercey, France 1 July 2008.

Sources: Nigel Preston website, the Independent (UK) online

NILI LOTAN

NUTSA MODEBADZE

Nutsa Modebadze is a Russian designer who creates accessories that amaze with their unusual, organic shapes and aged patina. Modebadze creates all of her pieces by hand and has recently expanded into a handmade clothing and footwear line.

Source: Pour Porter, Nutsa Modebadze website

OLIVEVE

Oliveve, a New York based handbag line, represents the antithesis of the bell and whistle embellishment trend so prevalent in the young designer accessory market. The tightly edited collection has the sumptuous ease of your favorite slouchy, worn-in tee shirt. Designers Lynn Rosetti and Kristi Zoldi, fashion industry veterans and best friends with over twenty years of experience in sales and merchandising for designers including Anna Sui, Botkier, Foley & Corinna, Stephen Sprouse, Jill Stuart, Loeffler Randall, and Steven Alan, recognized the need for subtle, high-quality bags at a reasonable price that are expertly designed in New York. Rather than being trapped by their market knowledge, the look of Oliveve is modern and not referential. Leathers are the focus of the design process, meticulously chosen for their feel and suitability to the unstructured silhouettes. The look is perfectly embodied by the Izzy bag – a sling hobo style in luxurious lamb that effortlessly shapes to the wearer’s body, yet is meticulously crafted from unusually sized skins and minimal seaming, featuring a special silver zip as the only hardware. 

Source: Oliveve website

ORGANIC BY JOHN PATRICK

CFDA Fashion Fund Nominee John Patrick started his line of organic apparel without formal design training; only his passion and natural vision was his guidance. Patrick’s first venture into apparel design was a hat collection, met with great success—Barney’s New York snapped up the entire thing! Debuting in Paris in 2005, Patrick’s organic fabrics are sourced from the likes of Japan and Peru, as well as organic wool from Vermont. In the fashion world, John Patrick stands as an innovator of fair trade, organic material, and beautiful designs that defy conventional limitations often associated with the use of organic material.

Source: John Patrick website

PARKER BLUE CASHMERE

andrew bernstein’s appreciation and eye for true luxury has been a constant theme throughout his career. he was involved in the launch of both loro piana and agnona in the us, and also introduced tse cashmere. bernstein also worked with zegna, fabry’s and cit, before starting his successful home and accessories collection. his 20 plus years of experience in cultivating brand recognition for labels entering the us market has placed him amongst the industry’s authorities on defining luxury.

jenny chase joined andrew bernstein inc. over ten years ago and currently manages the team of young designers and emerging artists that make up the company.  she also oversees the sales and public relations for the duo’s new label, parker blue.   chase previously worked at fred segal in la, and also started her own ny based showroom and line before working in marketing for italian based luxury products.  the couple’s combined experience includes working with distinguished labels such as lorena antoniazzi, coast, brunello cucinelli, gunex, versace, d&g, fendissime, allegri, aida barni.

Source: Parker Blue website

PEACE OF CLOTH

 


For many years, way before PEACE OF CLOTH began, most of our staff had previously worked together. As individuals we have always been involved with several different charitable organizations. The organization we have become closest to, day in and day out, is Dress for Success.

Dress for Success helps to inspire strength and confidence for their clients competing for a new job, by providing them with clothing that enables them to feel self-assured and poised in an interview. Suits to self-sufficiency.

Source: Peace of Cloth website

PETER COHEN

Peter Cohen is that rare designer who assiduously dodges the spotlight. No logos. No brash signatures. And for the 18 years that he’s been in business, he’s put only a golden star on his label, not his name.

“I’m a secret all over town,” Cohen joked as he ushered stylists, longtime customers and newcomers through a presentation of his spring 2001 collection at Chateau Marmont on Monday. Though his clothes hang in Saks Fifth Avenue, Savannah, Avant-Garde and the closets of well-known women, including Angela Bassett and new fan Anne Heche, Cohen remains low profile.

Source: LA Times, Huzza

PESERICO

PIERANTONIO GASPARI

Pierantonio Gaspari spent his childhood among the knitting machines in the knitwear company founded by his family. Growing up he became more
and more fascinated and he learned all the secrets he would need to create his own line : PierAntonioGaspari , a total look with a new conception,
with garments that turn fashion into an enigmatic game and always chic. The brand has become one of the most extraordinary stylistic and
commercial successes in the knitwear field and is distributed all over the world.

Experimentation
An enthusiastic experimenter, always spurred to extremes by inspirationcoming from all sorts of sources: a journey, a film, an art exhibition, a musical piece.
As if moved by an invisibile fury, the material plies into shape and becomes a new collection, a new piece in the history of fashion. And so it is that each of his creations abandons the classical concepts of outfit, fashion, line, and colour. Each piece becomes one of a kind, an absolutely original representation of three dimensionality, bringing Pierantonio’s style close to architectural design. His creations are structures built for a body, supported by a real talent in combining love for knitwear, sobriety and transformation.

Transformation
While looking at a PierantonioGaspari garment our visual perception is stimulated because the lines appear to break and the shapes recompose, the volume of the garment we have before us is suddenly transformed and then seems to disappear. Every collection contains an idea that provokes an overturning of the constructional conventions and therefore a shirt can become a dress by a simple destructuring of its volumes.These modern metamorphosis’s are the result of many years of research on the traditional ways of knitting.

Wearing
His woman is a rebel angel, elegant and sober. A woman who moves like a seductive warrior, one who has conquered her place in the world with great simplicity. Because the world was waiting for her, an expression of contemporary views, ready to wear this refined and innovative brand of Made in Italy.

Source: PierAntonio Gaspari website

PRIVATE 0204

Vintage one-of-a-kind unique limited handmade natural all pure hemp kelim rugs with a plus 40-50 years history, and a wash-wash finish.

Individually and originally collected throughout the anatolian plateau; washed in the sea and dried on the beach to ensure this unique and amazing hemp touch - prior to be re-vitalized and re-designed by prïvate 0204 of copenhagen.

Source: Private 0204 website, Siene Home

RACHEL COMEY

Initially a menswear designer, Rachel Comey’s success came when David Bowie wore one of her shirts on The Late Show with David Letterman. Comey then expanded into womenswear and footwear by honing her craft with an urban design approach mixed with vintage inspiration.

RAQUEL ALLEGRA

RENÉ LÉZARD

Breaking new ground. Living genuinely. Full of conviction and internal strength. With the sovereignty to always remain true to oneself without becoming predictable. Also breaking styles, but without becoming in bad style. And, as a matter of course, being able to laugh at oneself. This has character, showing individuality.

RENÉ LEZARD actually lives this attitude.Using traditional values, we put the spirit of the age into perspective – whereby classic combines fully authentically with modernity. So demanding women and men can express their personal characters in a very special, independent way: elegantly, but not too serious;

exclusively, but extremely cosmopolitan; cultivated, but never conventional; extrovertly, but always in stylish. This stylistic harmony of contrasts is mirrored with RENÉ LEZARD in each of our high-quality collections – it is a self-confident expression of individuality and modernity.

REPETTO

Founded by Rose Repetto in 1947 at the request of her ballet choreographer son, this ballerina-friendly shoe company began by producing pointe shoes and ballet slippers of the best quality. In the sixties, Repetto became famous for making street shoes inspired by ballet slippers thanks to Brigitte Bardot, who sported them so chicly in French film “And God Created Woman.” The company finally partnered with fashion powerhouses including Chanel (2009) and a Grethen House favorite, Comme Des Garçons. Repetto’s reputation for making durable yet perfectly feminine shoes has expanded hugely as a result of these high-profile designer collaborations and iconic appearances on the feet of such iconic women as Brigitte Bardot. Ballet starts, fashion houses, and other lucky “souls” can always be comfortably chic, thanks to this nearly 70-year-old company.

Photo from Examiner

RICK OWENS

ick Owens is a naturally gifted designer with an interesting educational background. He began his undergraduate studies in his native California as an art history major, before taking a pattern-making course that opened his eyes to a different career path in visual arts! After Rick Owens’ first decade of experience as a fashion designer working in California and then Paris, Kate Moss elevated his industry status at the turn of the century when she appeared in French VOGUE wearing one of his breathtaking jackets. Since then, the stealthily branded, darkly romantic Rick Owens jacket has haunted the dreams of all fashion enthusiasts. (Aside from the iconic Moss, the likes of Rihanna, top supermodel Lara Stone, former VOGUE Paris editor Carine Roitfeld, and Madonna are emphatic fans of Rick Owens apparel.)

Grethen House loves Rick Owens best for his innate understanding of the female anatomy—and his accordingly brilliant women’s clothing. Perhaps his background in art history as well as his designer experience in France opened Owens’ eyes to the importance of detail in composition when constructing his renowned jackets, such as a nipped-in lower back panel, narrow shoulders, sculptural lapels, and broken-in materials of couture quality.

What makes these materials unique to Rick Owens designs is the method in which they are treated, being stretched, tanned, dyed, ripped, draped and cut in ways completely unique to the designer. It is quite evident in Rick Owens’ collections that he has established an aesthetic that never tires from season to season.

The Look

Glamour-meets-grunge. Asymmetrical dresses, fitted jackets, and soft, slouchy knits are the hallmarks, though recent collections have been a little more structured—but never conceptual. “People just aren’t going to come to me for a trend. People come to me for things that are a little poignant, a little broken,” Owens admits. For the most part, the clothes are functional, too, with the line featuring a lot of wearable separates for non-model bodies. 
His look has been described as “glamour-meets-grunge”, but Owens himself says it’s “about an appreciation of teenage angst without actually having the angst”.

Source: fashionmodeldirectory, photo Renaissance Mod

RIVAMONTI

Brunello Cucinelli, the company named after the man, owns Rivamonti. After establishing his cashmere company with great success, Brunello bought the small Rivamonti knitwear company towards the late 1980’s. In doing so, Brunello was able to translate the same quality and design philosophy of his cashmere company to a different audience, using only the highest quality wools, wool/silk blends, as well as cottons and linens as soft as silk.

Source: Ruth Shaw Inc.

ROBERT CLERGERIE

ROBERT CLERGERIE STARTS HIS CAREER IN 1970, JOINING THE GROUP CHARLES JOURDAN. AFTER FEW YEARS OF COLLABORATION WITH MR ROLAND JOURDAN, HE DECIDED TO BUY THE SOCIÉTÉ ROMANAISE DE LA CHAUSSURE, MANUFACTURER OF THE BRANDS UNIC ET J.FENESTRIER.

IN 1981, HE LAUNCHED THE ROBERT CLERGERIE LINE FOR WOMEN TAKING INSPIRATION FROM THE MASCULINE UNIVERSE OF THE COMPANY AND ITS TRADITIONAL CULTURE. THIS NEW LINE GAINS AN IMMEDIATE SUCCESS, IN FRANCE AND ABROAD. THIS PERIOD WAS FOLLOWED BY A STRONG INTERNATIONAL DEVELOPMENT OF THE COMPANY.

IN 1996, ROBERT CLERGERIE DECIDES TO LEAVE FOR RETIREMENT BUT THE TRADE VIRUS PUSHES HIM TO COME BACK. THEN, IN DECEMBER 2001, HE PURCHASES THE COMPANY THAT CARRIES HIS NAME AND DECIDES TO BE INVOLVED AGAIN IN THE DESIGN OF COLLECTIONS.

IN THE SHOES INDUSTRY, THE NAME OF ROBERT CLERGERIE IS ASSOCIATED WITH SIMPLICITY, RESEARCH OF PURITY IN THE DESIGN, BUT ALSO THE QUALITY OF FITTING. ON HIS PHILOSOPHY, ROBERT SAYS : « IN MY CREATIONS, I ALWAYS RESPECT THE BASIC PINCIPLE, LEARNED FROM THE FAMOUS BOOT MAKER ANDRÉ PERUGIA, THAT YOU CARRY A GARMENT, BUT FOR A SHOE IS DIFFERENT : THE SHOE CARRIES YOU, AND ALL THE DIFFICULTY IS HERE».

IN RECOGNITION OF HIS CONTRIBUTION TO THE INDUSTRY, ROBERT CLERGERIE WAS HONOURED 3 TIMES BY THE FASHION FOOTWEAR ASSOCIATION WITH THE PRIZE OF THE BEST DESIGNER OF THE YEAR (87, 90 AND 92). FURTHERMORE, HE ENTERED INTO THE “HALL OF FAME” OF THE MAGAZINE FOOTWEAR NEWS IN 2005.

Source: robert clergerie website

ROSEANNA

ANNE-FLEUR AND ROXANE, CHILDHOOD FRIENDS FOREVER PASSIONATE ABOUT FASHION, ALWAYS DREAMT ABOUT WORKING ON A PROJECT TOGETHER. THEY BEGAN ARMING THEMSELVES SEPARATELY, ONE AT ALBERTA FERRETTI, THE OTHER AT BA&SH. IN SEPTEMBER 2007, THEY TOOK THE PLUNGE.

ROSEANNA IS THE COMBINATION OF THE TWO DESIGNER’S SURNAMES. IT EMBODIES THE JUXTAPOSITION OF THEIR PERSONALITIES, STYLES AND REFERENCE POINTS, AS WELL AS THE FRIENDSHIP THAT UNIFIES THEM. ROSEANNA OFFERS A COMPLETE WARDROBE WITH A NONCHALANT-REFINED STYLE. THE SELECTION OF BEAUTY MATERIALS, THE DETAIL, AND QUALITY TRIMMINGS, WHICH PUNCTUATE EACH PIECE, ARE AT THE CENTER.

ROGAN

Founded in 2001 by designer Rogan Gregory and Scott Mackinlay-Hahn in New York City, ROGAN combines soulful minimalism with traditional quality.

The collections for men and women are driven by an intellectual utilitarianism that combines modernism with asymmetrical construction. Rogan works with the contrast and interplay of texture and monochrome to create strong graphic statements throughout each collection. Extensive research and development yield innovative fabrications and treatments that combine form and function in every piece.

In 2007, Rogan was awarded the prestigious CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund Award.

ROGAN continues to fuse the traditional, experimental, rural and urban with clothing, architecture and art. 

Source: Rogan website

SHOUROUK

source: Shourouk website

SILENT

SILENT is the casual collection for men and women created by the Parisian avant-garde label Damir Doma. 

Renouncing decorative elements, the designs centre on pure, soft shapes and fluid volumes retaining the fabric’s raw form. SILENT was first presented in October 2009 alongside the womens ready-to-wear collections in Paris. The range offers beautifully finished mens and womens styles in jersey, knits and woven fabrics - as well as leather outerwear, shoes, and accessories crafted from carefully selected materials. 

“Silent is the state we are in when we are freed of thoughts, of noise or of any other distraction. It is in silence that we can clear our minds and focus on details that would otherwise be overseen. Confronted with a world that becomes more noisy every day, we can close our eyes and hear the music behind the roaring sound of a city -the enduring play of silence and sound. For it is when we are silent, that we can truly admire and embrace the essence of something. We are left in state of purity and peacefulness, open to embrace the surrounding.”
Damir Doma.

Text, Silent official website

STEVEN ALAN

Having spent the past 15 years creating a mini fashion world grounded in classic American roots - fashioned with a twist - it’s clear that Steven Alan has quietly emerged an uncommon fashion pioneer. Upon opening his first retail store in 1994, Steven sold pieces from an eclectic group of emerging designers, becoming known for his keen eye. Building on his reputation for scouting the most intriguing young designers, the Steven Alan Showroom opened in 1996. Steven’s knack for the modern reinterpretation of classics garnered him an impressive roster of designers on the rise, and the Showroom now represents 20 designers of clothing, handbags and other accessories.

The launch of Steven Alan’s first collection in 1999, including his now-signature Reverse Seam Shirt, created a loyal following for Steven’s unique brand of casual, smart, self-assured essentials for both men and women. Steven now sells his collections at six eponymous New York stores, and in 2008 introduced three locations in Southern California. The Steven Alan Collection also reaches a global audience, and is now sold in over 300 stores worldwide.

Source: Steven Alan’s website

THEYSKEN’S THEORY

photo source: theysken’s theory site

VELVET

VELVET BY GRAHAM & SPENCER BEGAN AS A CONTEMPORARY T-SHIRT LINE IN 1997 BY JENNY GRAHAM AND TONI SPENCER. THE AIM WAS SIMPLY TO CREATE STYLISH, HIGH QUALITY FASHIONABLE TEES, TANKS AND TOPS THAT WOULD EMBODY THE LAID-BACK WEST COAST LIFE-STYLE. THIS CONCEPT STRUCK A CHORD WITH A FASHION PUBLIC STARVED OF HIGH-END BASICS AND THE LINE QUICKLY TOOK OFF, EXPLODING ONTO THE RETAIL MARKET. WITHIN A SHORT PERIOD OF TIME, VELVET BY GRAHAM & SPENCER WAS FLYING OFF THE SHELVES IN DEPARTMENT STORES AND BOUTIQUES AROUND THE WORLD. OVER THE LAST FEW YEARS, THE LINE HAS EVOLVED TO ENCOMPASS STYLISH LUXURY STAPLES AS WELL AS GORGEOUS DRESSES, MUSTHAVE JACKETS, VIBRANT PRINTS AND MUCH MORE. IN A CULTURE OF THROW-AWAY FASHION, VELVET BY GRAHAM & SPENCER STANDS OUT FROM THE PACK BY CREATING CLOTHES THAT SIMPLY GET BETTER WITH TIME. CRAFTED USING LUXURIOUS FABRICS, VELVET IS PRIMARILY MANUFACTURED IN THE US.

Source: Velvet website

VERONICA BEARD

Sisters-in-law Veronica Miele Beard and Veronica Swanson Beard combined their backgrounds in finance and fashion when they launched Veronica Beard in Fall 2010 with “The Jacket.” Between the two, they are raising 7 children and are busy with their families, social and work lives in New York City.  This full lifestyle is what led them on their quest to simplify dressing for women by designing modern icons of a woman’s wardrobe.

Veronica Beard is an American sportswear brand pioneering the opening designer price point; the space between luxury and contemporary collections. Strong attention is paid to design, quality and fit. The brand delivers American-made, iconic pieces that transcend time and trend. These pieces make up what we call “The Uniform.” 

sourced from Veronica Beard’s website

WHITE + WARREN

Cashmere originated in the Himalayan regions of Central and Southwest Asia. Over centuries, cashmere goats have spread to various other mountainous areas, most notably in China and Mongolia. These goats thrive in adverse conditions, growing thick coats for cold mountain winters. In the spring, the cashmere goats are combed for the downy under-layer of cashmere fibers. These fibers are finer than the finest wool, and exceptionally soft and lofty.

Cashmere got its name from Kashmir, a region now in northern India that became known in Europe in the nineteenth century for its fine shawls. Early European producers developed new technology to process cashmere fibers, largely using fibers traded from China. Since the advent of sweaters as fashion items in the early twentieth century, cashmere has increased substantially in popularity for a variety of uses, from sweaters to slippers to pillows.

Source: W + W website

Yazbukey

Created at the cusp of the millennium, the brand was the brainchild of Yaz, an Ottoman princess whose family reigned in Egypt. (An interesting fact: one of the family’s ancestors, Mehmet Ali Pasha, King of Egypt, gave the Concorde Obelisk to Napoleon…)

Since the beginning of the century, the Yazbukey brand has given us a number of collections showcasing playful, creative jewels, conceived by a fertile imagination that mixes pop references with a frivolous yet complex way of associating images. Yaz has tamed every technical and structural aspect of Plexiglas, combining it with such unusual partners as metal or macramé.

After studying at Studio Berçot and working at Margiela, McQueen-era Givenchy and Jeremy Scott, Yaz’s universe constructed itself around the ornate: accessories for oneself, and also for the home, with the imminent launch of Yazbukey Home Sweet Home.
The fun-filled world of her jewels is like a giant lucky dip, where figurative necklaces, mouse evening bags and Plexiglas bracelets create a unique galaxy and original signature.
Regularly collaborating with other brands, Yazbukey recently celebrated its tenth birthday in March 2010.

Source: Yazbukey website

YIGAL AZROUEL

Yigal Azrouël launched his eponymous women’s wear label in 1998 to critical acclaim and by 2000 began his participation in New York Fashion Week. Azrouël defined his aesthetic using high-quality fabrics to drape ultra-feminine, modern silhouettes. In August 2000, Azrouël opened his full-service atelier and showroom in New York’s Garment District; the company continues to produce 70% of the collection locally. The success of these early collections allowed Azrouël to open his flagship boutique in February 2003 in New York’s Meatpacking District. The store opened as one of the neighborhood’s pioneer retail ventures, helping pave the road for the District’s evolution into a worldwide fashion destination. The Yigal Azrouël Boutique, and award-winning website, both collaborations with Dror Benshetrit, have been recognized for their unique vision and innovative design.

In July 2004, Yigal Azrouël was inducted into the prestigious Council of Fashion Designers of America for his design talent and has remained an active member. Azrouël, a self taught designer, and who’s signature aesthetic can be found in his expert draping, has evolved throughout the years through a myriad of forms and fabrics. His designs are always modern and fresh, with a precise attention to detail. The Fall 2007 season elevated the Yigal Azrouël Collection to a new level of status with the debut of the first full Menswear Collection and capsule Accessories Collection. Simultaneously refined, cool and wearable, the Yigal Azrouël Menswear collection redefines American sportswear and day dressing for the modern man. In 2008, the men’s collection garnered Azrouël a nomination from GQ for the Best New Designer in America. In the same year, Azrouël opened a second boutique in the Water Mill, New York and was chosen as the featured designer at Mercedes Benz New York Fashion Week for Fall 2009.

For the Fall 2010 season, the young designer continued to expand his growing business by launching a new contemporary brand concept called Cut25, which earned instant commercial and critical praise worldwide. Yigal Azrouël debuted his first shoe collection during New York Fashion Week at the Women’s and Men’s Spring 2011 shows, where for the first time he presented the Men’s collection individually. He was also personally selected by Dolce&Gabbana to be one of the eight featured designers at Milan’s Spiga2 store, which aims to recognize young and emerging designers around the world.

With the designer’s global visibility increasing and evolving product portfolio, the Yigal Azrouël online store was launched in September 2010 in partnership with Intersect, a global Internet retailing partner for leading fashion and design brands, specializing in e-commerce, social media and mobile operations. Simultaneously, with the launch of the brand’s online store, a strategic social media campaign was also initiated, which includes a blog titled, “Inside The Studio”, which is an interactive platform for readers to understand what drives and motivates the inner workings of the company.

Born and raised in Israel of French-Moroccan descent and having traveled to locations metropolitan and remote, Yigal Azrouël draws inspiration from everything and everywhere: art, culture, architecture, nature and his hometown, New York City.

Source: Yigal Azrouel website, photo by Tommy Ton

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A place for fashion connoisseurs. High fashion. Presenting designers like Rick Owens, Maison Martin Margiela, Zero + Maria Cornejo, and Comme des Garcons (just to name a few). est. 1953

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